2021 Barbaresco Bordini, Elvio Cogno

It’s easy to overlook this Barbaresco from an estate so synonymous with Barolo, but it’s a cracking wine, especially in the landmark 2021 vintage. Bordini is a long-term leased vineyard near Neive, with sandier soils – and a slightly warmer climate – than Ravera. The wine undergoes a slightly shorter maceration than the Barolos and tends to be accessible at an earlier stage. Raised for 12–14 months in large Slovenian oak barrels, the ’21 is bright and lifted on the nose, with classic aromas of cherry, rose petal and savoury spice. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, with purposeful acidity, silky tannins and a gently grippy, appetising finish.