2024 Mercurey 1er Cru Champs Martin Blanc, Domaine Bruno Lorenzon

Champs Martin is very much the beating heart of the domaine, with 3.5 hectares under a mix of white and red vine. It’s a wonderful vineyard, dominated by its strong limestone constitution. Bruno won’t be drawn on whether it’s better for Pinot and Chardonnay and one can appreciate his reticence to climb off the fence when both versions are so amazing. Bruno found echoes of Meursault Genevrières in this wine’s character; I was leaning more towards Puligny Folatières. Either way, these are both highly complimentary comparisons, and neither is too fantastical. These vines face southwest rather than due south and perhaps it’s just that slight tweak of the exposition that sets the stoney character of the wine alite. This is tensile and thrilling and a beautiful contrast to the more powerful wine above. There is clearly room for both in any serious cellar. Drink from 2030