2022 Riesling Kaiton, Kuenhof

Kuenhof’s Riesling combines the shimmering acidity of the Mosel with the gastronomic potential and some of the texture (but not the weight) of Alsace. As crystalline and refreshing as an alpine stream, and easy to enjoy, it’s also a wine to meditate over, with levels of complexity that reveal themselves gradually with time in the glass, and even more so with the right dish, such as asparagus risotto, seabream crudo or – perhaps more realistically for most of us – a simple insalata caprese.