2023 Syrah Non Expedit, Elio Ottin

Is there nothing father and son Elio and Nick Ottin can’t do? Standard-bearers for the Aoste Valley, they’re best known for Pinot and the local (white) Petite Arvine, but Syrah also thrives here, on the valley’s granite slopes. ‘Non Expedit’ hails from a 1.2 hectare parcel at 500m – the name refers to the fact that a previous owner of the land was supposedly threatened with excommunication, because the church wanted to take ownership of such a prime site. Elio and Nick’s wine is made with 30% whole bunch and matured for a year in foudre. It’s explosive – with classic violet, liquorice, smoke and tapenade aromas – yet controlled, with cleansing acidity and neatly integrated tannins. More Northern Rhône in style than anything else, but really an outstanding Syrah all of its own