2022 Meursault Clos de Rougeot, Domaine Jean & Gilles Lafouge

One of the wines of the whole tasting. With Maxime Lafouge joining his father Gilles over the last couple of years, the domaine is in danger of moving from a great 'insider's' domaine to a fully-fledged superstar. Based in Auxey-Duresses, which is flourishing in this brave new world of climate change, Gilles and Maxime managed to buy this wonderful monopole just in time to make a 2021 version. With a queue of potential buyers stretching all the way back to the streets of Meursault, the previous owner favoured selling to Maxime, a true local who embraces everything positive about the future of Burgundy. This second vintage was on great terms with itself, showing a lovely stony, mineral nose, tinged with a hint of sap and spice and real weight, that was perfectly supported by its classical frame. Seriously good.