2024 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots, Domaine Georges Noëllat

As much as we try to deny it, there is something about a handful of the 1ers Crus on the Vosne side of Nuits, which, in the best hands, can transcend the appellation to an astonishing degree. We have spoken several times of the brilliance of Jacques Devauges’ La Richemone since he got his hands on it in 2021, and here is another gorgeous example. Boudots neighbours Malconsorts, but tends to have a slightly more immediate appeal than that structured backward Vosne 1er Cru can often manage to proffer in youth. Old vines again, obviously, though these have now been able to raise their bat to the crowd, having reached their century. There remains a lot of structure and substance, yet this depth has been glossed up by beautifully polished tannins which are sumptuously silky. Black cherry and great freshness make for an intoxicating mix.