2022 Röttgen Riesling, Heymann-Löwenstein

(Dry) Rottgen tends to be the first vineyard to ripen here and the resulting wine is a baroque celebration of upfront fruit, floral and slatey aromas. The 2022 is broad and rich on the attack but gains tension towards the finish. Reinhard sometimes compares the estate’s wines to a Rorschach teste and this is a case in point: if you want it to be an early-drinking pleasure bomb, so be it, but there’s certainly scope for it to develop into something more cerebral. Drink from 2023