2024 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières, Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Meursault famously does not possess any Grand Cru vineyards, but it is widely acknowledged that Perrières is the top dog of the village. This year, the fruit comes uniquely from the superior Dessous part, as the young vine fruit from the upper plot (Ginette) was declassified into the village wine. Cooler vintages often emphasise the reductive character of wines, and this is certainly the case here. The nose is all crushed rocks and smoky flint, with just a hint of ripe lemon sitting underneath in a tightly coiled bundle of energy. The palate does not give much more at this stage; it feels sinewy and wiry like a marathon runner, with spice and dry extract dominating at present over the dense but compact citrus that should show itself in time. Enormous potential here, though it will require some patience.