2024 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Domaine du Comtes Lafon

This is almost entirely from the superior Dessus part of Charmes, in the corner between Puligny Combettes and Meursault Perrières. At 1.7 hectares, it is the largest Lafon Premier Cru, with vines aged between 30 and 90 years old. Pierre feels this is the most consistent wine in the cellar, partly because it is such a big holding, but also because the soil here is perfect at managing water regardless of the vintage conditions. It is beautifully balanced, with real poise and grace, and no one element overpowering any other. There is a real flow and lift to this Charmes, and it feels as though the vineyard’s natural exuberance is perhaps tamed slightly by the vintage, making it a more intellectual wine than is often the case.