2024 Volnay-Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru, Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Coming from a substantial 3.8 hectare holding, this is Lafon’s flagship red wine. The nose is wonderfully Volnay in profile, with an explosion of pretty red berries bursting through a floral perfume while a cool, saline note sits in the background. The palate is equally lively, with splashes of redcurrant and cranberry combining with crushed limestone and a tiny dash of white pepper. This is certainly not a powerful wine, but it offers a marked contrast to the richer and riper wines that we have become accustomed to, and it should appeal to lovers of older-style Burgundy who appreciate the aromatic, perfumed purity of truly Burgundian Pinot Noir. This is a wine that could come from nowhere else, and for that I love it.