2024 Pouilly-Loché Les Mures, Domaine Clos des Rocs

It’s no great surprise that this vineyard was at last granted 1er Cru status. It’s a great vineyard, east-facing with a strong limestone content and the hard rock just a few inches below the surface at times. Olivier has about a hectare planted with 70-year-old vines. This version shows a hint of noble reduction, accentuating its chalky energy. Its intensity and sense of dry extract is great, bringing salinity, length and sapidity. It’s so mouthwatering. A great debut. Top drawer. Drink from 2029