2023 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Crays, Domaine Gilles Morat

Gilles Morat represents the first generation of his family to bottle wines under their name, taking charge of the domaine in 1997 and quickly establishing a reputation for incisive, mineral wines of real precision. Based in the rare, high-altitude village of Vergisson, between the dramatic limestone outcrops of Roche de Solutré and Roche de Vergisson, the domaine now extends to eight hectares across Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran. Gilles works alongside his wife Joëlle, with their son Pierre joining in 2020, marking a new chapter for the estate. ‘Les Crays’, meaning “under the cliff”, is a cuvée not to be missed. Produced in tiny quantities (around 600 bottles), it comes from a warm, south-facing site on Marne soils. This was the second Premier Cru added to the range, originating from vines passed down through Gilles’ great-aunt. Tight and focused, with a subtle reductive edge. The palate is fresh and linear, building towards a gently spiced finish, characteristic of the terroir.