2018 Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaiona

The 2018 from Cerbaiona is a truly outstanding Brunello. Fragrant, transparent and fine boned with just the right degree of aristocratic reserve. Winemaker Matthew Fioretti, in charge of the estate since 2015, regards it as ‘a big step up’ on his previous vintages, which were pretty darn impressive in their own right! Production in 2018 was small owing to a dramatic re-planting programme (with a superior clone of Sangiovese) and the damp growing season, which called for rigorous sorting. The galestro limestone here really shines through in ’18, with a lovely stoney thread to the wine. It was raised primarily in 350L barrels, some new, yet the oak is seamless, as is every component of this opera d’arte.