2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Loups, Domaine des Lambrays

This used to have a little young vine fruit from the Clos, but no more, as the Clos now has nothing younger than 20 years of age planted. It’s a blend of the confusingly-named Le Village (one fifth of a hectare that sits in the heart of the village), a tenth of a hectare of La Riotte, which brings more structure to the table, and a half hectare of Les Blanchards, which adds some aromatics as well as some substance. This is no shrinking violet. It’s a wine of considerable power and potential. Its initial lushness, thanks in part to the ripeness of its tannins, is a false lead as the wine begins to close down shortly after and the structure becomes ever more overt. This has real matter and will age very well. Drink from 2030