2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Rouge, Domaine Hubert et Olivier Lamy

There are a handful of producers in Burgundy who have moved up into that rarified air where their reputation outweighs the appellations they work with. Olivier Lamy is one such man. Quite simply his wines are a benchmark for St Aubin, the village in which he lives and the appellation with which he is best associated. Red Chassagne continues to become ever more of a bargain in these Chardonnay-obsessed times. The secret is to find a top grower, who cares equally about all of his wines, and showers the same attention and skill on his Pinot as he does his Chardonnays, but then follows the market and sells at much lower prices than he sells his whites. Step forward exhibit A!