2023 East Ridge Estate Pinot Noir, Hirsch Vineyards

East Ridge is particularly impressive in 2023, with the balance between fruit weight and this vineyard’s characteristically chewy tannins brilliantly managed. It’s enjoyable now, balanced and poised, but the concentration and mountain-inspired ruggedness on show here should mean it has a long life ahead. Explosively perfumed, it’s also probably the most textural of the wines this vintage, with succulent, soft, aromatic dark and purple fruit.