2022 Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Bernard Defaix

This has bright citrus and saline aromas and a subtle, inviting nutty character. But it really comes alive on the palate: with two years in bottle, it’s gained complexity and mouthfeel but lost none of its zip. It tapers nicely on the finish, which is long and unmistakeably saline. A lively apéritif and a classic match for shellfish, but the 2022 Aligoté from Defaix has enough weight and presence to be paired with grilled fish or chicken too. A top-notch example of a variety enjoying its moment in the sun.