2023 Aubaine, Pouilly-Fumé, Domaine Jonathan Didier Pabiot

The name ‘Aubaine’ refers to just how hard it is to farm this parcel given its exceptionally lean, stony limestone soil. The vines here, in the lieu-dit Les Champs Cris, are up to fifty years old. The resulting wine was raised primarily in concrete, allowing it to breathe and to round out the edges while locking in its inherent freshness. This is a smokey, cerebral Sauvignon comparable in profile to Stéphane Riffault’s exquisite Sancerre ‘Les Chailloux’.