2021 Vouvray Sec, Domaine du Clos Naudin (Vincent Foreau)

This is a laser-focused, ineffably mineral Chenin Blanc from one of Vouvray’s best addresses. The nose is subtle but alluring, with notes of orchard fruit, lanolin and blossom, while the palate is characterised by shimmering acidity and a bright, concentrated core of white fruit. 2021’s cool, damp growing season has resulted in a wine that’s linear – and immensely long – but should gradually fill out over the coming years, gaining untold textural as well as aromatic complexity. Already a special wine, this really does have the attributes to become a truly great one.