2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, Domaine de Montille

This is more backward than the Mitans and a little sterner, making you work that little bit harder for the pleasure. It’s worth the effort, though, as the overall composition is excellent. The soil is stonier and the vineyard’s further up the slope than the Mitans, sitting just to the north of Clos des Chênes. Again 100% whole bunch but the balance of flesh and control is spot on. Grown up Volnay for the cognoscenti.