Rocca di Montegrossi

The fabulous Rocca di Montegrossi was established in 1994, so is a relative newcomer to the Chianti Classico scene, but founder Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi is not: his family has been making wine in Chianti since the 12th Century. It seems appropriate therefore that the wines, which are organic certified, combine old-school gravitas with “modern” vibrancy and freshness.

The estate is located in Monti, just south of Gaiole. It today amounts to around 100 hectares, of which just a fifth are under vine; another fifth is given over to olive groves and the rest is woodland and scrub. From the outset, biodiversity has been a priority for Marco.

The vines lie on a limestone plateau, with a notably cool microclimate, at elevations of up to 510 metres. They encircle the ancient church of San Marcellino, which lends its name to Montegrossi’s oldest parcel of vines (planted in the Fifties).

Montegrossi’s flagship Chianti Classico is, in our book, as good an example as you’ll find for the money. Sangiovese with just a dash of Canaiolo and Colorino, it is ready to drink on release but has the attributes to improve for up to five years.

While the Classico spends 11 months in concrete and neutral oak casks, San Marcellino – a Gran Selezione from the eponymous vineyard – is aged for 24 months in wood, including barriques, and a further 24 in bottle prior to release. It is a wine of tremendous complexity and age-worthiness.Geremia and Ridolfo are two of our favourite Tuscan IGTs.

Geremia is a poised, elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Ridolfo, whose name pays homage to one of Marco’s medieval ancestors, really is one for the ages – an imposing blend of Cab and indigenous Pugnitello, so-called because its small, tightly packed bunches resemble little fists.

Completing the line-up here are a delightful, gastronomic Rosato, made from 100% Sangiovese, and a showstopping Vin Santo. For the Vin Santo, Malvasia Bianca grapes are air-dried in nets in a loft above the winery. The wine is then aged for a scarcely creditable eight and a half years in caratelli – small barrels of oak, mulberry and cherry wood. The resulting wine is lusciously sweet yet savoury, fresh and, frankly, irresistible. There’s only one catch: Marco insists you drink it with something other than the traditional cantucci.