Cerbaiona

One of Brunello’s most revered estates, with a near-mythical reputation, Cerbaiona has undergone a quiet revolution under Matthew Fioretti, the American importer turned winemaker who succeed founder Diego Molinari in 2015. Molinari, himself a former Alitalia pilot, established Cerbaiona in 1977, when he purchased several prime vineyards from the historic Cerbaia estate. Located south-east of the town of Montalcino, next to Salvioni, Cerbaiona is comprised of just 4.5 hectares, primarily on well-exposed, east-facing slopes, galestro-rich soils, with a notably cool microclimate.#

Molinari’s wines gained a cult following, but could be somewhat inconsistent – something Matthew has sought to rectify. He has overseen construction of a state-of-the-art winery, as well as an ambitious program of replanting (which meant a succession of tiny vintages). In the cellar, Matthew favours shorter macerations than his predecessor, and – in contrast to many Brunello producers – has increased the ratio of smaller barrels to casks in the cellar.

The most recent vintages of Brunello – typically released En Primeur in the springtime – were raised primarily in medium-toasted 350L French Baron barriques, albeit for only two years (the minimum requirement), before being racked into unlined concrete tanks where micro-oxygenation can continue – with no loss of freshness or energy – for a further two years.

The rusticity that was, arguably, part of the charm of Cerbaiona under Molinari’s stewardship, is not for Matthew. At the heart of his endeavours is a desire to make polished wines that are profoundly expressive of this exceptional terroir.

As well as the Brunello, Matthew and his talented team, which includes Plumpton graduate Andrea Balducci, are responsible for a best in class Rosso di Montalcino and Grammatica, an earlier-drinking IGT, blended from estate-grown Sangiovese and Bordeaux varietals.