The fast-talking but charming Nicolas Boiron, who would not look out of place in the front row of the French national rugby side, is now in charge at this domaine and is doing sterling work. The wines here have always been good but they have got even better in recent vintages.
Old vine Grenache probably runs through Nicolas' veins; it certainly plays an important role at the domaine. There are numerous different plots whose produce is blended together, although the special cuvée Chante Le Merle comes from a specific parcel of very old vines. Nicolas also likes to use Mourvèdre should conditions allow and this certainly helps to add an extra dimension to the wines. Mourvèdre is a wonderful varietal but it takes some getting ripe. However, when on song it adds not just structure but also wonderful aromatic intensity.
The most significant change he has actioned is perhaps to the tannins, which seem that much finer, more noble. Consequently, they help give the wines greater finesse and allows their subtleties to express themselves more clearly. Alongside the ’basic’ Châteauneuf two special, Grenache-dominated cuvées are made from individual plots of very old vines Nicolas also makes a rather delicious white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which shows so much more freshness than most examples and makes a superb accompaniment to grilled fish.

Nicolas has just received wonderful reviews from both Decanter magazine and Robert Parker for his 2007s, a reflection of his continued progress up the quality ladder. Demand for them has been high and we have just a few cases left.

TASTING NOTES