New Zealand endured something of a false dawn in the 1980s. Voracious new planting of vineyards had been undertaken with perhaps more enthusiasm that careful planning as to what varietal worked best where. Consequently, initial excitement at these new wines coming over from the other side of the world gradually cooled.

However, the setback merely served to ensure that they got things right second time round, with much greater respect paid to the microclimates and soils of the different regions.

Now, in 2008, the country is producing some seriously good wines, both reds and whites. Central Otago, which lies in Lord of the Ring country, close to Queenstown in the middle of the South Island, has emerged as one of the most dynamic regions in the country. Its cool climate means it has more in common with European wine regions than Australian ones and the variety that seems to be flourishing here is the notoriously fragile Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir works so well in Burgundy because it is far enough north to avoid the potentially destructive heat of southern France and far enough south to ripen fully. In Otago, it seems to have found it's ideal new world home, although the region's susceptability to frost is annual worry, often resulting in crop sizes being dramatically reduced. There is a real sense of community in Otago rather than jealous rivalry, with all the wineries anxious to promote the area above their personal labels. As the vineyards get older so the wines should develop greater complexity but already they are showing some wonderful Pinot characteristics. After all, all good things come to those who wait.