This is a domaine that has undergone generational change. Having enjoyed a terrific spell of success in the 1990s under the care of the highly talented Romain Lignier, son of Hubert, the domaine was suddenly struck by tragedy in 2003 when Romain died suddenly of a brain tumour. His American wife, Kellen, subsequently decided to take up the mantle and devote her life to the future success of her late husband’s pride and joy. In a brave and positive move she renamed her inherited portion of the domaine (about two thirds) after her children, Lucie and Auguste. From the 2006 vintage onwards she has harvested her own grapes and vinified her own wine separately from her father-in-law, who may or may not continue to produce his own wine.

With a wonderfully strong collection of vineyards in her portfolio these are exciting times for Kellen, who is ambitiously planning to build a new cuverie from which to nurture her new wines. With lots of old vines amongst her parcels she is keen to maintain the expression of individuality and terroir in her wines, although we may see a touch more elegance in them compared to older offerings from this domaine. Normally these are Pinot Noirs that require plenty of bottle age before reaching full maturity, but a touch more finesse in youth may make them more approachable when young. We will see. For the record, her 2007s are sensational.