When we arrived at this domaine in the autumn, Jean Guiton was busy breaking in a young horse to help him work the family vineyards. We were welcomed by his son Guillaume, who now runs the estate. Bligny is a small village to be found a couple of miles down the road after turning left off the N74 en route to Meursault from Beaune. Guillaume works a number of less fashionable appellations but does so in the style of someone who really knows what he is doing. The whole range really impressed, each wine showing terrific purity and length of flavour. These are elegant Burgundies that sing of their appellation and show enviable poise and harmony. Those of you who like crude, extracted, in your face Burgundies please look elsewhere.

Guillaume has been in charge now for about five years and acknowledges the fact that as he has got to know his vines better so his wines have improved. Despite the weakness of £ these still offer cracking value for money.